A FANTASTIC DAY IN ANTI ATLAS-DAY 5

We started the day with an early walk from our hotel, Riad Dades Lodge. As the sun rose, several Hoopoes were feeding nearby, and one nearly fell victim to a hunting Eurasian Sparrowhawk.

Hoopoe

Migrants seemed to be everywhere. We spotted Western Subalpine Warbler, Serin, Western Bonelli’s Warbler, Laughing Dove, Tree Pipit, along with several Common Chiffchaff and Eurasian Blackcap. A Great Spotted Woodpecker was drumming in the trees, while a Levaillant’s Woodpecker called in the distance.

Laughing Dove

Serin

After breakfast, we headed to our first birding stop. Sadly, what we found was a huge rubbish dump stretching for miles across the desert. Plastic bags, bottles, and other waste covered the ground. It was a depressing sight and a harsh reminder of the damage people can do to such a beautiful place.

Shameful scenes of what we are doing to our planet

Despite the mess and the strong smell, birds were everywhere. Several stray dogs were scavenging through the rubbish while birds fed around them. 

The highlights were several impressive Thick-billed Larks.

Thick-billed Lark

Their huge bills make them very distinctive, and they were a lifer for everyone in the group. We also saw Temminck’s Lark, White Crowned Black Wheatear, Desert Wheatear, White Stork and a beautiful pair of Red-rumped Wheatear. 

Temminck’s Lark

Red-rumped Wheatear

White Crowned Black Wheatear

Desert Wheatear

 

White Stork

A group of Little Ringed Plovers and several wagtails were also feeding among the rubbish.

Our next stop was much more enjoyable. The desert landscape opened up into red sandstone and sandy plains. Here we found four Cream-coloured Courser calmly walking across the ground. 

Cream-coloured Courser

There were also many larks, including a large flock of Greater Short-toed Lark.

Later, we visited Vallée des Oiseaux. Before starting our walk, we discovered an amazing reptile under a rock, a Saharan Horned Viper.

Saharan Horned Viper

(c) Jack Pettit

Birding in the valley was excellent. 

Vallée des Oiseaux

We saw Trumpeter Finch, Desert Lark, Desert Wheatear and Thekla’s Lark.

Desert Lark

(c) Jack Pettit

Trumpeter Finch

(c) Jack Pettit

One of the biggest highlights came when our guide spotted a magnificent Pharaoh Eagle-Owl perched on a cliff, staring straight at us with its bright orange eyes.

Pharaoh Eagle-Owl 

Soon after, a Lanner Falcon appeared overhead. Later, it returned with another bird and briefly chased a pair of Common Kestrels in an exciting aerial display.

 Lanner Falcon 

We also found a pair of Maghreb Wheatear. The striking black-and-white male looked fantastic beside the more subtle female.

Maghreb Wheatear

In the afternoon, we drove through a spectacular gorge. 

From a viewpoint, we enjoyed Blue Rock Thrush, Rock Bunting, Moussier’s Redstart and great views of Tristram’s Warbler. We even saw a wild Rock Dove clinging to the cliffs.

Tristram’s Warbler

Blue Rock Thrush

The only bird we missed today was Bonelli’s Eagle, but after such a fantastic day of birding, nobody really minded.

We finished the day with a relaxed walk around the hotel grounds. Tomorrow we head deeper into the desert, and after today’s warmth, shorts and sunscreen will definitely be needed! 

CHESHIRE AND WIRRAL BIRD NEWS

11th March

2 Green-winged Teal (drakes) on new flash off Old Baths - Parkgate

250 Black-tailed Godwits - Caldy Wildfowl Collection

Ruddy Shelduck-One still on River Mersey off Spike Island-Widnes

Greater Scaup-Adult drake still on sea off lifeboat station-Hilbre Island

Shore Lark-In field by the wall along the Gritstone Trail between the telephone mast and the Old Man O'Mow-Mow Cop

Eurasian Spoonbill-Two adults still opposite Coastguard Lane-Padgate

10th March

Green-winged Teal (flew to Boathouse Flash) and 2 Spoonbill - Parkgate.

Scaup (drake), 3 Goldeneye, 3 Goosander and 10 Brent Geese (one dark-bellied) - West Kirby Marine Lake.

Crossbill flew low over horse paddocks (going west) - Leasowe Lighthouse.

40 Russian White-fronted  Geese - Burton Mere Wetlands.

17 Purple Sandpiper - Hilbre.

Eurasian Bittern-Budworth Mere-Northwich

Shore Lark-Still in field by the wall along the Gritstone Trail between the telephone mast and the Old Man O'Mow and Wheatear-Mow Cop

Caspian Gull-Adult-Sandbach Flashes

20 Black-necked Grebes and 1st winter female Greater Scaup-Woolston Eyes-Permit ONLY

9th March

20 Black-necked Grebes-Woolston Eyes-Permit ONLY

Eurasian Spoonbill-One flew from Decoy Marsh towards Pickerings Pastures-Hale

Black Redstart (fem) by coastguard station - Dove Point, Meols.

Good views of both Scaup (drake) and a Common Scoter - West Kirby Marine Lake.

2 Russian White-fronted Goose

-Burton RSPB

Slavonian Grebe-Sweeney Wetlands

Shore Lark-Still in field by the wall along the Gritstone Trail between the telephone mast and the Old Man O'Mow and Wheatear-Mow Cop

8th March

Slavonian Grebe-Sweeney Wetlands

Black Redstart (fem) by the coastguard station and the Landmark Stables -Dove Point, Meols.

Dark-bellied Brent Goose in field with Greylag Geese -Thornton Hough.

Greater Scaup-Adult on sea-Hilbre Island

Eurasian Spoonbill-Burton RSPB

Scaup (Drake) - West Kirby Marine Lake

FROM THE HIGH ATLAS TO THE DESERT-DAY 4

Today was an epic transition day on our Morocco birding adventure. We started in the Atlas Mountains, crossed over the High Atlas, and made it down to the semi-desert north of the Anti-Atlas. 

Even though we spent hours on the bus, every stop was incredibly productive, with spring migration in full swing!

Our early morning walk had us drooling over several calling Levaillant’s Woodpeckers, what a stunning green beauty! We carefully studied the subtle details of female Moussier’s Redstarts and enjoyed migrating Common Cuckoos calling as they headed north.

Right after breakfast, just up the road from our lodging, we picked up great views of Barbary Partridge and the local Maghreb Magpie. It’s always a treat to see these North African specialities so well.

Maghreb Magpie

(c)Dennis Morrison

Our hearts sank a little when we drove into thick fog in the High Atlas, with visibility down to just a few yards ahead. However, a lovely coffee stop lifted everyone’s spirits. The locals lit a roaring log fire to warm us up while we enjoyed lively multilingual conversations with them. As we descended and the fog lifted, we stopped for wheatears. Only a single Northern Wheatear showed, but the skies soon filled with hundreds of migrating Black Kites dropping in, along with a Marsh Harrier heading north and a playful flock of more than 70 Red-billed Choughs tumbling around, pure joy to watch!

A little further down, the whole group enjoyed their first proper, stunning views of a male Moussier’s Redstart, Morocco’s national bird. With its vibrant orange plumage, black head, and striking white wing flash, it’s easy to see why it has become such an icon of the country. We also added our first North African Buzzard (the local long-legged form) at the same stop.

Moussier’s Redstart

Lunch was delicious, and the restaurant veranda delivered more birds: a pair of Subalpine Warblers and a handsome male Common Redstart showing beautifully.

Subalpine Warbler

(c) Jack Pettit

As we entered the red sandstone plains and arid landscapes, a fierce wind whipped down from the mountains.

It didn’t stop us from finding our first Desert Larks creeping around right in front of us alongside Thekla Larks. 

Desert Lark

(c) Jack Pettit

A tricky first-year White-crowned Wheatear gave us the runaround before finally showing off its gorgeous tail pattern, satisfying views all round!

White-crowned Wheatear

(c) Jack Pettit

Our final big stop at Barrage Mansour Eddahbi was phenomenal; birds just kept coming.

Barrage Mansour Eddahbi

A superb Tristram’s Warbler performed brilliantly.

Tristram’s Warbler 

(c) Jack Pettit

We added Isabelline, Desert, Northern, and Black-eared Wheatears to the list, and the lake held Great Crested Grebes, Ruddy Shelducks, Kentish Plovers, three Greenshanks, as well as drop-in Gull-billed Terns, Alpine Swifts zooming overhead, with a Pallid Swift putting in a fine performance.

Ruddy Shelduck

(c) Jack Pettit

Isabelline Wheatear

(c) Jack Pettit

Pallid Swift

(c)Dennis Morrison

Two gorgeous Western Bonelli’s Warblers hid among the migrant Chiffchaffs, and just as we were about to leave for the hotel, three majestic Short-toed Eagles soared over the desert. A perfect end to the day, or so we thought!

Western Bonelli’s Warbler

(c) Jack Pettit

We arrived at our excellent accommodation, Riad Dades Birds Lodge in Boumalne Dadès, set against the dramatic backdrop of the Moroccan desert.

Riad Dades Birds Lodge 

With just enough daylight left, we squeezed in an hour of birding before dusk and picked up three distant Scops Owls, along with great views of a pair of Little Owls.

After an excellent supper, we set out again with thermals in hand and a torch. At first, there was only silence, but after about an hour, a Scops Owl started its distinctive “car alarm” call close by. With a little patience and careful manoeuvring, we finally picked up the bird in the thermal imager. Briefly illuminated in the torchlight, it showed well to the assembled and ecstatic group for a few magical minutes before we switched off the beam and left it in peace in the darkness. 

Scops Owl

(c) Jack Pettit

We walked back slowly, enjoying the magnificent African night skies above us on our way home.

What an incredible journey through Morocco’s changing landscapes, with migration magic everywhere. Tomorrow we dive into the surrounding desert, targeting some key specialities and hoping for even more of that spectacular passage. Can’t wait!