Today was an epic transition day on our Morocco birding adventure. We started in the Atlas Mountains, crossed over the High Atlas, and made it down to the semi-desert north of the Anti-Atlas.
Even though we spent hours on the bus, every stop was incredibly productive, with spring migration in full swing!
Our early morning walk had us drooling over several calling Levaillant’s Woodpeckers, what a stunning green beauty! We carefully studied the subtle details of female Moussier’s Redstarts and enjoyed migrating Common Cuckoos calling as they headed north.
Right after breakfast, just up the road from our lodging, we picked up great views of Barbary Partridge and the local Maghreb Magpie. It’s always a treat to see these North African specialities so well.
Maghreb Magpie
Our hearts sank a little when we drove into thick fog in the High Atlas, with visibility down to just a few yards ahead. However, a lovely coffee stop lifted everyone’s spirits. The locals lit a roaring log fire to warm us up while we enjoyed lively multilingual conversations with them. As we descended and the fog lifted, we stopped for wheatears. Only a single Northern Wheatear showed, but the skies soon filled with hundreds of migrating Black Kites dropping in, along with a Marsh Harrier heading north and a playful flock of more than 70 Red-billed Choughs tumbling around, pure joy to watch!
A little further down, the whole group enjoyed their first proper, stunning views of a male Moussier’s Redstart, Morocco’s national bird. With its vibrant orange plumage, black head, and striking white wing flash, it’s easy to see why it has become such an icon of the country. We also added our first North African Buzzard (the local long-legged form) at the same stop.
Moussier’s RedstartLunch was delicious, and the restaurant veranda delivered more birds: a pair of Subalpine Warblers and a handsome male Common Redstart showing beautifully.
Subalpine WarblerAs we entered the red sandstone plains and arid landscapes, a fierce wind whipped down from the mountains.
It didn’t stop us from finding our first Desert Larks creeping around right in front of us alongside Thekla Larks. 
Desert LarkA tricky first-year White-crowned Wheatear gave us the runaround before finally showing off its gorgeous tail pattern, satisfying views all round!
Our final big stop at Barrage Mansour Eddahbi was phenomenal; birds just kept coming.
Barrage Mansour EddahbiA superb Tristram’s Warbler performed brilliantly.
Tristram’s Warbler We added Isabelline, Desert, Northern, and Black-eared Wheatears to the list, and the lake held Great Crested Grebes, Ruddy Shelducks, Kentish Plovers, three Greenshanks, as well as drop-in Gull-billed Terns, Alpine Swifts zooming overhead, with a Pallid Swift putting in a fine performance.
Ruddy Shelduck
Isabelline Wheatear
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Pallid Swift
Two gorgeous Western Bonelli’s Warblers hid among the migrant Chiffchaffs, and just as we were about to leave for the hotel, three majestic Short-toed Eagles soared over the desert. A perfect end to the day, or so we thought!
Western Bonelli’s WarblerWe arrived at our excellent accommodation, Riad Dades Birds Lodge in Boumalne Dadès, set against the dramatic backdrop of the Moroccan desert.
Riad Dades Birds Lodge With just enough daylight left, we squeezed in an hour of birding before dusk and picked up three distant Scops Owls, along with great views of a pair of Little Owls.
After an excellent supper, we set out again with thermals in hand and a torch. At first, there was only silence, but after about an hour, a Scops Owl started its distinctive “car alarm” call close by. With a little patience and careful manoeuvring, we finally picked up the bird in the thermal imager. Briefly illuminated in the torchlight, it showed well to the assembled and ecstatic group for a few magical minutes before we switched off the beam and left it in peace in the darkness.
Scops OwlWe walked back slowly, enjoying the magnificent African night skies above us on our way home.
What an incredible journey through Morocco’s changing landscapes, with migration magic everywhere. Tomorrow we dive into the surrounding desert, targeting some key specialities and hoping for even more of that spectacular passage. Can’t wait!
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