A FANTASTIC DAY IN ANTI ATLAS-DAY 5

We started the day with an early walk from our hotel, Riad Dades Lodge. As the sun rose, several Hoopoes were feeding nearby, and one nearly fell victim to a hunting Eurasian Sparrowhawk.

Hoopoe

Migrants seemed to be everywhere. We spotted Western Subalpine Warbler, Serin, Western Bonelli’s Warbler, Laughing Dove, Tree Pipit, along with several Common Chiffchaff and Eurasian Blackcap. A Great Spotted Woodpecker was drumming in the trees, while a Levaillant’s Woodpecker called in the distance.

Laughing Dove

Serin

After breakfast, we headed to our first birding stop. Sadly, what we found was a huge rubbish dump stretching for miles across the desert. Plastic bags, bottles, and other waste covered the ground. It was a depressing sight and a harsh reminder of the damage people can do to such a beautiful place.

Shameful scenes of what we are doing to our planet

Despite the mess and the strong smell, birds were everywhere. Several stray dogs were scavenging through the rubbish while birds fed around them. 

The highlights were several impressive Thick-billed Larks.

Thick-billed Lark

Their huge bills make them very distinctive, and they were a lifer for everyone in the group. We also saw Temminck’s Lark, White Crowned Black Wheatear, Desert Wheatear, White Stork and a beautiful pair of Red-rumped Wheatear. 

Temminck’s Lark

Red-rumped Wheatear

White Crowned Black Wheatear

Desert Wheatear

 

White Stork

A group of Little Ringed Plovers and several wagtails were also feeding among the rubbish.

Our next stop was much more enjoyable. The desert landscape opened up into red sandstone and sandy plains. Here we found four Cream-coloured Courser calmly walking across the ground. 

Cream-coloured Courser

There were also many larks, including a large flock of Greater Short-toed Lark.

Later, we visited Vallée des Oiseaux. Before starting our walk, we discovered an amazing reptile under a rock, a Saharan Horned Viper.

Saharan Horned Viper

(c) Jack Pettit

Birding in the valley was excellent. 

Vallée des Oiseaux

We saw Trumpeter Finch, Desert Lark, Desert Wheatear and Thekla’s Lark.

Desert Lark

(c) Jack Pettit

Trumpeter Finch

(c) Jack Pettit

One of the biggest highlights came when our guide spotted a magnificent Pharaoh Eagle-Owl perched on a cliff, staring straight at us with its bright orange eyes.

Pharaoh Eagle-Owl 

Soon after, a Lanner Falcon appeared overhead. Later, it returned with another bird and briefly chased a pair of Common Kestrels in an exciting aerial display.

 Lanner Falcon 

We also found a pair of Maghreb Wheatear. The striking black-and-white male looked fantastic beside the more subtle female.

Maghreb Wheatear

In the afternoon, we drove through a spectacular gorge. 

From a viewpoint, we enjoyed Blue Rock Thrush, Rock Bunting, Moussier’s Redstart and great views of Tristram’s Warbler. We even saw a wild Rock Dove clinging to the cliffs.

Tristram’s Warbler

Blue Rock Thrush

The only bird we missed today was Bonelli’s Eagle, but after such a fantastic day of birding, nobody really minded.

We finished the day with a relaxed walk around the hotel grounds. Tomorrow we head deeper into the desert, and after today’s warmth, shorts and sunscreen will definitely be needed!