It was the penultimate day of our Birdwatching Morocco tour with Hamid, and what a thrilling shift in scenery! After more than a week exploring the mountains and desert, we’ve finally reached the Atlantic coast, beginning at the Oued Souss River just south of Agadir.
Driving through Agadir, we saw our first Northern Bald Ibis. Hopefully, we will see this bird today.
Oued Souss River
Scanning from the nearby bridge soon produced our first Mediterranean Gulls, while the mudflats held a classic lineup of waders, including Dunlin, Grey Plover, and Ringed Plover. Adding to the spectacle were impressive numbers of Spoonbills and Flamingos feeding across the estuary.
From there, we headed south to Souss-Massa National Park. Along a dusty farm road teeming with hundreds of sheep, we sifted through a gathering of Cattle Egrets when one dark shape stood out. The mystery bird quickly resolved itself into one of the world’s rarest species: the Northern Bald Ibis. This iconic Moroccan bird is thankfully making a comeback, and we were thrilled to see more than 60 individuals strut just yards away in the field.
Northern Bald Ibis
Cattle Egret
The same area also hosted several races of Yellow Wagtail. We noted flava, flavissima, and iberiae, along with a few apparent hybrids. Two Spectacled Warblers and several Subalpine Warblers, Zitting cisticola and even more interest at the stop.
Continuing along a nearby riverbank produced another wave of exciting birds. A stunning Western Olivaceous Warbler sang from close range while migrants were clearly arriving.
A handsome male White-spotted Bluethroat showed beautifully, joined by a Common Redstart, a Turtle Dove, and a freshly arrived Grasshopper Warbler reeling from the vegetation.
(c) Jack Pettit
Then we heard the unmistakable downward whistle of one of the area’s most sought-after species. Soon we were enjoying superb views of several Black-crowned Tchagras, with at least three birds showing well.
Two Western Orphean Warblers and several singing Common Quails rounded out an exceptional stop.
Lunch brought its own rewards.
A close Stone Curlew loafed nearby while two Gannets cruised offshore and numerous Sandwich Terns streamed north. A walk along the beach produced our first Sanderlings, along with Oystercatchers, Whimbrels, and Turnstones.
In the afternoon, we explored deeper within Souss-Massa National Park.
At one point, we passed a group of roadside birders clearly focused on something special. Our guide, Hamid, suggested we move on and return later once the crowd had dispersed. The target was a Red-necked Nightjar, and he was confident it would remain in place.
The next few hours flew by as we enjoyed more of the park’s incredible scenery. Avocets fed in the shallows alongside Flamingos and Spoonbills, and the surrounding fields were bright with spring flowers.
Unfortunately, when we returned to the nightjar site, disaster struck. Mammal watchers searching for an endemic rodent had accidentally flushed the bird. It had disappeared, and we were gutted. It was the first real disappointment of the trip.
To lift our spirits, we returned to the Oued Souss River, where bird activity remained fantastic. New additions included Spotted Redshank, Ruff, White Stork, Little Stint, Little Gull, and Black-tailed Godwit. Hundreds of Flamingos and Spoonbills fed in the evening light while two Ospreys called to each other overhead. Gull-billed Terns hawked insects right in front of us, providing wonderful close views.
As an added bonus, we noted a ringed Greater Flamingo from AndalucĂa and a ringed Spoonbill that had originated in the Netherlands.
Feeling bad about the missed nightjar, Hamid had one more plan. After picking up food so he and his driver could break their Ramadan fast at sunset, we headed to another site in hopes of redemption.
The evening air soon filled with the sounds of Stone Curlews calling while our first Eurasian Curlews passed overhead. Then suddenly we heard it: the distinctive “gok-gok” call of a Red-necked Nightjar.
Moments later, the birds appeared. Up to four nightjars were flying around us, wing-clapping and displaying in the fading light. It was an unforgettable show and far more exciting than simply seeing one resting on the ground during the day.
Malc, happy hes seen the Nightjar
We headed back elated after an extraordinary day of birding on Morocco’s Atlantic coast. Yet again, Morocco proved why it is such a spectacular birding destination.
