MOROCCO-MARRAKESH-LALLA TAKERKOUST-DAY 1
This trip had been booked for over a year, and at last the day had arrived. I was travelling with Jack Pettit, Malc Curtin, Owen Parsons and Marc Hughes, and after months of talking about it, we were finally on our way.
After an early morning pickup by Marc and Owen, we met Jack and Malc at Manchester Airport. Before long, we were touching down in the vibrant city of Marrakesh, Morocco.
With plenty of excitement and a full week of birding ahead of us, we collected the hire car and headed straight out of the city.
Driving south along some fairly dodgy roads (great for birds though!), we quickly started adding species to the list. Early sightings included Great Grey Shrike, the impressive Maghreb Magpie, Spotless Starling, and plenty of lively House Buntings.
Maghreb MagpieOur first proper stop was the dammed lake at Lalla Takerkoust, and it turned out to be a brilliant spot. The weather was warm and sunny, and the surrounding countryside was much greener than we expected.
Lalla TakerkoustWe soon found several African Chaffinches, which looked and sounded quite different from the ones we see back in the UK. Two Moroccan Wagtails were also feeding nearby alongside the familiar White Wagtail.
Moroccan Wagtail
African ChaffinchThen Jack suddenly shouted out, “Moussier’s Redstart!” Sure enough, a stunning male Moussier’s Redstart appeared and gave us fantastic views. Before long, a second bird joined it, giving us a brilliant start with one of the trip’s key target species.
Moussier’s RedstartNearby, Crested Lark and Thekla's Lark were displaying side by side, which made for a great comparison.
Thekla Lark 
Crested Lark
Painted Lady Not far down the road, we were treated to a fantastic roadside Black Wheatear, which performed brilliantly on nearby buildings.
Black WheatearWe also added Blue Rock Thrush, several Common Bulbul, a flyover Eurasian Spoonbill, and groups of Cattle Egret heading to roost.
Common Bulbul
As the light began to fade, we made our way back to Marrakesh, already buzzing from a brilliant first day. If day one was anything to go by, the rest of the trip was going to be very special.
MARRAKESH- LALLA TAKERKOUST-DAY 2
Up early before sunrise to make the most of the daylight, we left Marrakesh in the dark and headed south to Lalla Takerkoust Reservoir.
Takerkoust ReservoirOur first stop produced a singing Common Cuckoo, a great start to the day! Sardinian Warbler and European Serin were also active in the early morning light.
Sardinian Warbler
Pallid Swift
Little Owl 
Rock Sparrow
Woodchat Shrike
Barbary Partridge
OspreyIn the afternoon, we explored the Agafay Desert, where persistence paid off with several singing Greater Short-toed Larks.
Before returning the hire car, we enjoyed a quick walk around Menara Gardens in Marrakesh, where several striking Maghreb Magpies gave a perfect end to a great day of birding.
Maghreb MagpieTomorrow we head into the mountains… looking forward to what we might find!
A MAGICAL DAY BIRDING IN THE HIGH ATLAS MOUNTAINS-DAY 3
What an incredible start to our Morocco birdwatching adventure!
Our day began bright and early in Marrakesh. After a hearty breakfast, our group of eight birders from across the UK met our guide Hamid at 7:30 a.m., outside our city-centre hotel. With excitement building, we set off toward the High Atlas Mountains.
Today wasn’t about chasing a huge species list; it was about quality birding in one of Morocco’s most spectacular landscapes.
As we left the city behind, early morning mist hung over the valleys while the road climbed steadily into the mountains. Soon, the sun began to break through, revealing dramatic views of snow-capped peaks towering above us. After navigating winding mountain roads, we reached a deserted ski resort.
It might have been quiet for skiers, but it certainly wasn’t quiet for birds.
Almost immediately, we were greeted by flocks of Red-billed Chough and Alpine Chough feeding along the roadside.
Alpine ChoughAfrican Crimson-winged Finches and Atlas Horned Larks crept about almost under our feet. Rock Sparrows and Rock Buntings kept appearing, and a pair of Black Wheatears showed up nicely.
Atlas Horned LarkDown by the river, Dippers and Water Pipits foraged along the edges. Every building seemed to host its own pair of Black Redstarts and Rock Sparrows.
Rock Sparrow
One bird, however, remained stubbornly elusive—the Alpine Accentor. We scanned rooftops, walls and rocky slopes for ages without success. Then, suddenly, a shout came out from the group, and there it was! The much-wanted Alpine Accentor giving us prolonged views. High-fives all round as another mountain speciality went onto the trip list.
Alpine AccentorWith spirits high, we enjoyed a delicious lunch of fresh salads and tagine.
On the descent, we added a few more species, including Coal Tit and Mistle Thrush, before heading lower to search for one of Morocco’s most sought-after birds, the Levaillant’s Woodpecker. Hamid, our tour leader, delivered, leading us straight to a nest hole where we watched the female entering and leaving. Soon, the male appeared too, calling and feeding in full view.
Levaillant’s WoodpeckerAlthough we didn’t find Tristram’s Warbler today, something we’re hoping for later in the week, we certainly weren’t disappointed.
Stunning scenery, fantastic birds, brilliant guiding, and great company. A perfect start to our Morocco birding tour.
FROM THE HIGH ATLAS TO THE DESERT-DAY 4
Today was an epic transition day on our Morocco birding adventure. We started in the Atlas Mountains, crossed over the High Atlas, and made it down to the semi-desert north of the Anti-Atlas.
Our early morning walk had us drooling over several calling Levaillant’s Woodpeckers, what a stunning green beauty! We carefully studied the subtle details of female Moussier’s Redstarts and enjoyed migrating Common Cuckoos calling as they headed north.
Right after breakfast, just up the road from our lodging, we picked up great views of Barbary Partridge and the local Maghreb Magpie. It’s always a treat to see these North African specialities so well.
Maghreb MagpieA little further down, the whole group enjoyed their first proper, stunning views of a male Moussier’s Redstart, Morocco’s national bird. With its vibrant orange plumage, black head, and striking white wing flash, it’s easy to see why it has become such an icon of the country. We also added our first North African Buzzard (the local long-legged form) at the same stop.
Moussier’s RedstartLunch was delicious, and the restaurant veranda delivered more birds: a pair of Subalpine Warblers and a handsome male Common Redstart showing beautifully.
As we entered the red sandstone plains and arid landscapes, a fierce wind whipped down from the mountains.
It didn’t stop us from finding our first Desert Larks creeping around right in front of us alongside Thekla Larks.
Desert Lark
Barrage Mansour EddahbiA superb Tristram’s Warbler performed brilliantly.
Tristram’s Warbler 
Isabelline Wheatear.jpeg)
Pallid Swift
Western Bonelli’s Warbler
With just enough daylight left, we squeezed in an hour of birding before dusk and picked up three distant Scops Owls, along with great views of a pair of Little Owls.
After an excellent supper, we set out again with thermals in hand and a torch. At first, there was only silence, but after about an hour, a Scops Owl started its distinctive “car alarm” call close by. With a little patience and careful manoeuvring, we finally picked up the bird in the thermal imager. Briefly illuminated in the torchlight, it showed well to the assembled and ecstatic group for a few magical minutes before we switched off the beam and left it in peace in the darkness.
Scops OwlWe walked back slowly, enjoying the magnificent African night skies above us on our way home.
What an incredible journey through Morocco’s changing landscapes, with migration magic everywhere. Tomorrow we dive into the surrounding desert, targeting some key specialities and hoping for even more of that spectacular passage. Can’t wait!
A FANTASTIC DAY IN ANTI ATLAS-DAY 5
We started the day with an early walk from our hotel, Riad Dades Lodge. As the sun rose, several Hoopoes were feeding nearby, and one nearly fell victim to a hunting Eurasian Sparrowhawk.
Hoopoe
Laughing Dove
Serin
Despite the mess and the strong smell, birds were everywhere. Several stray dogs were scavenging through the rubbish while birds fed around them.
The highlights were several impressive Thick-billed Larks.
White Crowned Black Wheatear
Desert Wheatear
Our next stop was much more enjoyable. The desert landscape opened up into red sandstone and sandy plains. Here we found four Cream-coloured Courser calmly walking across the ground.
Cream-coloured CourserLater, we visited Vallée des Oiseaux. Before starting our walk, we discovered an amazing reptile under a rock, a Saharan Horned Viper.
Vallée des Oiseaux
Trumpeter FinchOne of the biggest highlights came when our guide spotted a magnificent Pharaoh Eagle-Owl perched on a cliff, staring straight at us with its bright orange eyes.
Pharaoh Eagle-Owl
Lanner Falcon
Maghreb Wheatear
From a viewpoint, we enjoyed Blue Rock Thrush, Rock Bunting, Moussier’s Redstart and great views of Tristram’s Warbler. We even saw a wild Rock Dove clinging to the cliffs.
Tristram’s Warbler
Blue Rock ThrushWe finished the day with a relaxed walk around the hotel grounds. Tomorrow we head deeper into the desert, and after today’s warmth, shorts and sunscreen will definitely be needed!
A MAGICAL DAY BIRDING IN THE MOROCCCAN DESERT-DAY 6
Just when we thought the trip couldn’t get any better, today exceeded all expectations. It was one of those unforgettable days filled with “pinch yourself” moments, incredible birds, and breathtaking desert scenery.
We started with an early morning walk around the hotel as the sun rose over the landscape. It was a wonderful beginning, with Woodchat Shrikes, Serins and a small wave of migrant warblers moving through the area.
Our first stop was the Dedes Valley. Hamid, our brilliant guide, promised we would see sandgrouse, and he delivered. Groups of bubbling Black-bellied Sandgrouse flew around us, some landing nearby once they became used to our presence. Then a different call caught our attention, and a group of beautiful Crowned Sandgrouse flew in and settled close by, giving us excellent views.
Black-bellied Sandgrouse
Hoopoe Lark
Saharan Scrub Warbler Desert Larks and Crested Larks were also present, along with a beautiful singing male Moussier’s Redstart.
Later, in some lush agricultural fields, we found several impressive larks with huge bills, Maghreb Larks, a distinctive southern Moroccan form that many of us were delighted to add to our lists.
Maghreb LarksBy late afternoon, we continued south to Merzouga and our hotel for the next two nights.
Not far from a Bedouin camp, a chipping call revealed a stunning male Desert Sparrow perched on a wooden hut, singing and allowing fantastic views.
Bar-tailed Lark
Great Grey Shrike
Now we’re heading off for dinner, though I doubt many of us will sleep much tonight. The desert sky is crystal clear, and with the excitement of what tomorrow might bring, sleep may have to wait.
Some days in the field feel almost unreal, and today was one of those rare “pinch yourself” moments. Our team spent the day birding deep in the Moroccan Sahara, guided by Hamid, whose knowledge of his home patch made the experience truly special.
The adventure began the night before. Armed with a thermal imager, we wandered through the desert under a sky bursting with stars. Tiny Desert gerbils and Jerboas bounced across the sand like miniature kangaroos.
Desert GerbilsAt sunrise, the desert came alive.
 Its not every day in life you wake to the sun rising over the Sahara Desert |
After breakfast, we headed out in two 4x4s, racing across the dunes and plains.
Brown-necked Raven
Cream-coloured CourserOur first stop was a small watering hole, where an unforgettable spectacle unfolded. The air suddenly filled with the calls of sandgrouse as more than a hundred Spotted Sandgrouse and dozens of Crowned Sandgrouse swooped in to drink.
Crowned Sandgrouse
Spotted SandgrouseLater, we visited a small Bedouin camp where Desert Sparrows hopped around the tents.
Desert Sparrow
Spanish SparrowOut on the open plains, we added Hoopoe Lark, Desert Wheatears, Maghreb Larks, and White-crowned Wheatears.
Hoopoe LarkThen came another highlight when a small pale bird dashed across the sand and began to sing as an African Desert Warbler, a true specialist of this harsh landscape.
African Desert WarblerPerhaps the most surprising moment came when a local Berber man guided us to a patch of desert vegetation where two perfectly camouflaged Egyptian Nightjars rested on the ground. Their sandy plumage blended almost invisibly with the desert floor.
Egyptian Nightjar
Black-eared Wheatear
Black-winged Stilt
Ruddy Shelduck
Cream-coloured Courser
Today was supposed to be a post-free day since it was mostly about travel. But it turned into an absolute legend of a day, even with six hours in the car driving from the Algerian border through central Morocco toward the Atlantic coast.
We rose early to catch a breathtaking sunrise over the Saharan dunes, where Bar-tailed Larks scampered about, and a pair of Great Grey Shrikes busily fed their brood of three freshly fledged chicks.
We reluctantly left our amazing hotel, but soon pulled over in a patch of arid desert. A short walk through the low scrub revealed two incredibly showy Saharan Scrub Warblers, far more cooperative than the single skulker we’d seen earlier in the trip.
Saharan Scrub WarblerNearby, a pair of Spectacled Warblers chased each other playfully, while a Northern Elegant Gecko delighted the herp enthusiasts in the group.
Spectacled Warbler
Northern Elegant GeckoPerched high in a distant bare-branched tree were six magnificent Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters, a mega-wanted bird for all of us and a lifer for most. Their vibrant green plumage shimmered in the light, accented by striking blue cheeks, bold black eye stripes and warm yellow-brown throats. These elegant birds, about a foot long with elongated central tail feathers, were a sight to behold.
We inched closer for epic views as they launched into action, gracefully hawking insects right over our heads with acrobatic swoops and dives.
Blue-cheeked Bee-eaterWe pressed on toward our destination, but not without one more emergency stop for a mesmerising migration, 12 majestic Short-toed Snake Eagle circling overhead.
Short-toed Snake EagleThe spectacle continued at the hotel with another 22 heading north, joined by a lone Black Stork.
What a day.
Tomorrow brings another travel leg, a five-hour journey to the Atlantic coast. But who knows what gems our rest stops might turn up. Stay tuned!
FROM THE ANTI-ATLAS TO THE ATLANTIC:AN ATLAS WHEATEAR TRIUMPH-DAY 9
After yesterday’s epic adventures and a magical night in a Moroccan castle, today had big shoes to fill as we wrapped up our journey west toward the Atlantic coast.
Before breakfast, we hiked to the top of a nearby hill to watch the sunrise wash over the Anti-Atlas.
A lone Black Stork glided lazily across the valley at dawn, while a Short-toed Eagle lifted off from its overnight roost in a nearby tree. Two Barbary Partridges scurried across the hillside, and five male Northern Wheatears had clearly arrived overnight as fresh migrants. Sadly, there was still no sign of the elusive Atlas Wheatear, the one real speciality missing from our list after seven days of searching. Time was ticking.
Following what the team unanimously voted the best breakfast of the trip so far, fresh pastries, excellent coffee, and local honey, we headed out for the day’s birding. Our first stop was a serene little lake in the middle of nowhere.
A two-hour drive through the rugged Anti-Atlas mountains followed, with everyone scanning every boulder and crag in the hope of finding that phantom wheatear. No luck… until we pulled over for a quick coffee break. As we stepped out of the van, a single wheatear zipped across the road and landed on an upside-down red Coca-Cola crate. “Atlas Wheatear!” came the excited shout, and chaos instantly followed. Everyone piled out of the van, one team member even snapping his glasses in the frenzy. Fortunately, the bird cooperated beautifully.
Atlas Wheatear
Our guide, Hamid, was determined to track down a Western Orphean Warbler. The grove quickly produced a pair of dazzling Moussier’s Redstarts and a striking male Common Redstart. Then, right on cue, a male Western Orphean Warbler burst into song nearby. After a brief game of hide-and-seek through the branches, we were rewarded with fantastic close views of this chunky Mediterranean warbler.
(c) Jack Pettit
Western Orphean Warbler
Moroccan Spur-thighed Tortoise
Just half an hour before dusk, we watched thousands of gulls streaming north offshore, joined by 60 elegant Greater Flamingos and a dozen stately Great White Egrets heading toward their evening roosts.
Zitting cisticola 
Western Olivaceous Warbler
Turtle Dove
Stone Curlew
At one point, we passed a group of roadside birders clearly focused on something special. Our guide, Hamid, suggested we move on and return later once the crowd had dispersed. The target was a Red-necked Nightjar, and he was confident it would remain in place.
Our final day in Morocco has come to an end, and what a brilliant trip it’s been.
We headed north from Agadir today, looking for gulls and migrants. For the first time on the trip, we had rain, and plenty of it, but it didn’t stop the birds.
There was a steady movement of migrants throughout the day. Common Cuckoo, Black-eared Wheatear, Whitethroats, Orphean, Subalpine, Sardinian and Spectacled Warblers were all active in the bushes, while Pallid Swifts and hirundines streamed overhead almost constantly.
Sardinian Warbler
Waders were excellent too, including Curlew Sandpiper, Little Stints, Bar-tailed Godwit (our first of the trip), Whimbrel, Curlew, Sanderling and Turnstone. Stone-curlews showed really well, those yellow eyes are something else!
SpoonbillOne of the standout moments was seeing a herd of Scimitar-horned Oryx in the National Park, a really encouraging conservation success.
To round off the day, four Black-crowned Night Herons flew over us as we walked to our final meal along the seafront, and I couldn’t have scripted it better.
We also managed to read a good number of rings, including Audouin’s Gulls, Lesser Black-backed Gulls from different countries, a Mediterranean Gull, and some ringed Flamingos. Always interesting to see where these birds have come from.
Now it’s time for one last meal, a few drinks, and to relive the highlights. Safe to say this won’t be the last trip together.
